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Cloning
Plants - How To |
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this cloning method you will need the following items: |
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- Cloning box. (Humidity
dome, or tray with matching clear lid)
- Heating pad.
- At least one twin tube
fluorescent fixture.
- Cool white fluorescent
tube and a Grolux tube.
- Clay balls (Expanded
clay balls) or Vermiculite, Perlite.
- Enough propagation cubes
(Rockwool/Oasis or Jiffy pots) for the qty of clones
you will take.
- Rooting hormone.
- Clone accelerator e.g.
Vegetative nutrients, Superthrive, Nitrozyme.
- Sharp knife (A scalpel
type is ideal) or razor blade.
- Spray bottle (for misting
clones).
- A bucket with clean pH
balanced water.
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Prior to taking
your clones, fill a clean bucket with enough water
to stand the clones in to halfway up the stem.
Add a water sterilizing agent at the rate indicated
by the bottle. Your
knife or scalpel should have a new or clean
cutting edge. Cut the stem or growing tip you
have selected, as you take your clones, place
them into the bucket of water, this helps keep
them in top condition by ensuring no air can
be drawn up the stem creating an embolism and
stressing the clone. |
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Herb's
Rapid Root is the premier hormone on the market
today |
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Clones
should have 3 to 5 well-developed sets of leaves
progressively up to the growing tip. The best
clones will be tip clones, that is, the top
of the stems. If you are short of material you
may use the internodal branches. |
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| Trim
off the bottom two sets of leaves flush with
the stem, try not to gouge into the stem. The
two sets of nodes you have just exposed will
later go into the propagation cube.
Trim
off any large leaves with your scalpel. If you
are not sure whether or not a leaf should be
removed, cut it in half removing the ends of
leaves. Wound the clone by GENTLY scraping the
stem on the lower 25mm of the clone with the
back of the scalpel blade.
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| Cut
the bottom of the stem on a 45° angle to within
5 – 10mm of the lowest node. Performing
these actions under water reduces the chance of
an air embolism, where air bubbles block the movement
of water up the stem. Remove the clone from the
water and immediately dip or paint the cut end
with rooting hormone. |
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Clay
Balls are one of many mediums that can be used
when cloning. These include Rockwool, Vermiculite,
Perlite and Oasis Blocks. |
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| NOTE:
Dipping the stem directly into a container of
rooting hormone will taint the entire container,
pour a small amount out onto a spoon or similar
tool and then use that to dip your stem into. |
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| Gently
insert the stem into a pre-punched hole in what
appears to be the underside of the cube, make
sure the stem does not protrude through the other
end of the cube. |
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| NOTE:
Rockwool propagation cubes should be rinsed thoroughly
before use, as salts which build up during manufacture
may inhibit root growth. Propagation cubes should
always be soaked in pH balanced water, then allowed
to drain before inserting clones. |
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| After
all the clones are inserted into propagation cubes,
make a layer of Vermiculite or Clay balls, about
4-5 cms think on the bottom of your cloning tray.
Gently push the cubes down into the mix, making
sure about ½ of the cube is pushed into
the mix. The Vermiculite or Clay bed serves to
create a consistently and evenly moist environment
for the cubes. |
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| After
all the cubes are set into the bed, it is time
to water. Mix a quarter strength vegetative nutrient
solution with warm water – very cold water
will shock the clones (never use water from the
hot tap as it contains high levels of bacteria.)
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| Water
the tray so that the cubes are evenly moist. Be
careful not to over water, push your finger to
the bottom of the tray and make sure there is
no water pooling. If there is, drain it out. The
cubes should remain evenly moist. The temperature
and humidity conditions in your cloning box, and
the amount of bottom heat will affect the amount
of time necessary between watering. |
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| Place
the clear plastic cover over the tray with the
clones. The heating pad should be in place underneath
the tray. Place the fluorescent fixture securely
over the top of the cover. Do not forget about
air circulation, open the vent holes or have a
small part of the lid wedged open. Too much humidity
and not enough airflow can cause damping off disease. |
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An
Example of plants grown in expanded clay balls. |
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| Monitor
the medium closely for the next week of so. The
vermiculite/clay should feel warm (20-22°
Celsius) to the touch. Mist the clones once or
twice a day as necessary. Roots should appear
in 7-14 days. |
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A
clone will generally live or die within the
first 72 hours. On the first day after cloning
it is not unusual to see most of the clones
looking a little knocked down, however they
should still appear green and lush.
By the second
day most clones should be looking toward the
light. Although they may not be standing erect.
By the third day most of the clones should show
definite movement toward the light with some
standing erect. At this time, any clones that
have wilted should be discarded. If more than
25% of the clones remain wilted after 72 hours,
this is an indication that a fundamental problem
exists with the growing environment.
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Switched
on Gardener has great products for
all your propagation needs. |
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Week
two brings many changes. The lower leaves
may begin to yellow, but unless a disease
is evident, remove no leaves. Plants that
survive week 2 will more than likely become
production plants. Colour change will continue
and some lower leaf drop may occur. The upper
leaves of the clone will begin to rise and
may show signs of burn.
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If the
medium is too wet, then some clones may be slow
in developing adventurous roots. Let the medium
dry out on a day-to-day basis until these roots
appear. Since the amount of water is directly
related to the wetness or dryness of the medium
cutting back on watering will allow the medium
to dry out and encourage adventurous roots. |
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